Waves are formed by the wind. The energy in the wind formed
waves, which move energy from one place to another place. In the wave, the
water particles just move up and down. They don’t move from one place to
another. As the wave reaches the shore , at some distance from the shore, the
bottom of wave hits the ocean floor and stops, while the top parts still move
on. This , then, topples over and thus forms a break. The energy in the waves
can be felt of you just stand in the wave. You feel yourself being caring away.